Outer Gunwhale Lamination
The outer gunwhale lamination is triangular: 15 mm wide at the base, 1 mm at the top and 25 mm high. It is made of Western Red Cedar. Detailed dimensions at each station can be found in the GUNWHALE / RUBBING STRAKE CONSTRUCTION drawing provided by designer Keith Callaghan.
To fit the outer lamination over the middle lamination, I used small wood screws to hold them together while bonding.
Once dry, I removed the screws. The angle and curvature of plank #8 makes it almost impossible to clamp the outer lamination securely over the middle lamination.
First, I held the outer lamination flush (at the bottom) against the middle lamination. Then I used a small drill bit to drill a screw pilot hole every 18 inches and avoid splitting the stock. For bonding, I applied West System epoxy resin with Colloidal Silica to both surfaces. Then I hand-tightened the screws. One at a time.

The rubbing strake is set at a constant 30 degrees to the vertical. This mean the outer lamination is set at a constant 60 degrees to the horizontal. To help me achieve the proper angle while shaving the stock with the block plane, I cut a simple plywood jig on the band saw.

I made a lot of wood shavings in the process. This can be improved by cutting the outer triangular lamination on a precision table saw, thus eliminating the need to shave the angle.
Final Priming Of The Hull

From the shrouds towards the bow, the gunwhale gradually reduces in width and depth. Detailed dimensions at each station can be found in the GUNWHALE / RUBBING STRAKE CONSTRUCTION drawing provided by designer Keith Callaghan.
View from the bow towards the transom
The Bow
Mid-Section
The Transom
Shaping The Centerboard Foil
In August, I bonded Western Red Cedar strips for the centerboard and the rudder, and I also cut both profiles using the drawings provided by Keith Callaghan. While the primer on the hull cures, I've decided to tackle the shaping of the centerboard and the rudder.

I won't attempt to explain all of this (there is plenty of material in books and on the Internet) but I'd like to share a reference I found on "How To Loft Airfoil Sections" on page 6 in a PDF document called: How to Build Rudder Blades and Centerboards by the Gougeon Brothers. I hope the reference proves useful to you as it did to me.




Using the foil jig as reference, I continued to shave away with the hand power planer as needed until the X,Y shape was achieved.
Here is the centerboard shape I've achieved so far. These initial steps have shaped the centerboard only in two dimensions.
Next steps include shaping the centerboard to its 3rd dimension. More to come next month when I do this.
Shaping The Rudder Foil
To shape the rudder foil, I followed the same steps as with the centerboard. The rudder reaches maximum thickness at 30% of the chord's leading edge. I made a pencil mark along that line on both sides of the rudder.

I mounted the rudder on my WorkMate work bench and sanded the edges to achieve a smooth profile.

Again, the block plane proved very useful for shaping the leading edge of the rudder foil and the hand power plan for shaping the rest.
Using the foil jig as reference, I continued to shave away with the hand power planer as needed until the X,Y shape was achieved.

Here is the centerboard shape I've achieved so far. These initial steps have shaped the centerboard only in two dimensions.
Next steps include shaping the centerboard to its 3rd dimension. More to come next month when I do this.
Happy Holidays!
Happy Holidays!