Painting The Inside
After applying two coats of Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote 2-part primer, I lightly sanded and cleaned the hull as prescribed, and applied the first coat of white Interlux Perfection 2-part polyurethane high gloss topside paint.
I followed the recommended roll and tip technique using a West System foam roller and a badger brush.
About 48 hours later, I lightly sanded and cleaned the inside of the hull in preparation for the second coat. For the second coat, I added Interlux's Flattening Agent for 2-part polyurethanes.
Mixing 2-part paint with thinner and then with 2-part flattening agent requires different part ratios and a specific mixing sequence to obtain the desired result per Interlux's instructions. I created a spreadsheet to calculate the combined ratios to mix only the amount of paint I needed.
View of the hull after the second coat was applied.Finishing The Deck Frame
In preparation for the deck, I had to build up the deck frames to ensure the top surface of the deck frame is leveled with the sheerline. This work included building up the king plank, the breasthook and the deck beams.
My mistake was not to interpret the drawings correctly when I fitted the deck beams, the breast hook and the king plank, although the drawings were clear.
Western Red Cedar strips added over the deck beams...
...and 30 mm x 4 mm marine plywood over the spaceframe tops.
Western Red Cedar added over the king plank and the breasthook, shaved and sanded.
View of the added Western Red Cedar over the main foredeck beam...
View of the added Western Red Cedar over the forward foredeck beam and king plank after shaving and sanding.
Next, I cut two 6 mm plywood pieces to fit between the jib cleat and the aft deck beam on the starboard side. I glued both pieces together with epoxy resin and colloidal silica. Then, I shaved the starboard plank angle and fitted the 12 mm plate with more epoxy resin and colloidal silica. The same process was followed on the port side.
This doubler is for the main and lower shroud sheaves.
I decided to add more curves to the deck to smooth our her lines around the aft deck beam where it intersects the king plank and where it turns around towards the jib cleat.
I cut a couple of 48" long x 30 mm wide strips of 4 mm thick plywood. I made the cut across the grain to facilitate the bending of the plywood around the desired turn radius. The width, from a point in the rear deck beam, was reduced to 25 mm at the king plank. One piece was enough to go around from the king plank to the aft deck beam and to then to the jib cleat.
For the rear, I cut a couple of 24" long x 20 mm wide strips of 4 mm thick plywood. I also made the cut across the grain for these to facilitate the bending of the plywood around the desired turn radius.
Next, I added Western Red Cedar reinforcements behind the plywood bends between the king plank and the aft deck beam. Also behind the bend between the aft deck beam and the stringers reinforcing the carlin. 
Likewise in the rear, behind the plywood bend between the stringer and the transomThe Deck
Varnish will cover the deck around the boat so I made sure to select a couple of 4 mm sheets of marine plywood with a pretty wood pattern to show off. This is the one I selected for the foredeck.
Firstly, I measured the distance between the aft end of the king post and the forward edge of the breasthook where the deck will end. I added 1 inch to that dimension and cut the plywood sheet across. Secondly, I centered the sheet of plywood along the king plank leaving half an inch extra aft and forwards so I can then plane it to shape after it has been glued in place.
Jeremy Deacon, fellow Merlin Rocket sailor and builder, recommends this procedure. This way not only does one have a slight margin for error but one gets a really good straight join when doing the gunwhales. Jeremy has also done several top-notch boat restorations. Thank you, Jeremy!
Once over the deck, I secured the foredeck with clamps and using a pencil I traced the outer edge of the gunwhale underneath. Then I moved the foredeck to a temporary work bench protected with poly to avoid damaging the face of the plywood that will be exposed. I traced parallel lines to the gunwhale lines, half an inch apart for cutting the foredeck with an extra margin for error.
Using a power jigsaw, I cut along the lines. Then I placed the foredeck back on the deck frames, centered and secured with small clamps. Next, I traced the curves under the foredeck from the aft deck beam to the king plank. Later I added parallel line half an inch apart for error margin before cutting.
View of the new foredeck from above. I'll follow a similar deck pattern as done on Rob Holroyd's WICKED. Two triangular pieces left from cutting the foredeck will be squared off and used to cut the adjacent pieces to the foredeck that will go half way down over the doubler for the main and lower shroud sheaves.
Next, I cut the second 4' x 8' sheet of 4 mm marine plywood in half along its length, ending with two 2' x 8' pieces. One for each of the side decks.
Later, I clamped the two 2' x 8' pieces over the side deck and over the transom.
For tracing the outer gunwhales on both side decks, I followed the same process as with the foredeck, then adding a parallel line about half an inch apart for error margin.
Same process with the inner carlin lines except some careful foot work and balancing inside the hull was needed to trace the pencil lines.
View of the foredeck, the side deck and the deck piece between the foredeck and the side deck that was made from the plywood triangular pieces left from cutting the foredeck.
Aft view of the side deck turning around towards and over the transom. A narrow 25mm plywood strip was cut and placed over the transom, connecting both side decks.
All deck pieces in place before epoxy coating and fitting.
Looks like she's already smiling and just waiting for makeup!
